Hiking trip among the vineyards to Dolní Kounice
We have put together and tested a day trip for you through the beautiful Kounice region. You will experience the charm of the First Czechoslovak Republic in Dolní Kounice, feel the magical genius loci of the ruins of the mysterious Rosa Coeli convent, taste delicious wine, e.g. at the Jan Plaček winery. And when you extend your trip to Ivančice, you will experience a swim at the raft like the heroes of Vančura's Whimsical Summer. Ready?
Brief information
From Brno by train, then on foot
Start your 14-kilometre trip in Moravské Branice. Starting from Brno? We count on it. Head to Moravské Bránice by train from Brno main train station on line S41. And if you're driving, go to Moravské Bránice and park at the station.
A red tourist sign will lead you from the charming Moravské Bránice station and throughout most of the trip. You can taste the first local wines in Moravské Branice at the Jan Plaček winery. They make great wines in their cosy tasting wine cellar. And just on the other side of the block, Mr. Rathouzský has a winery, too.
But don't stay in the wine cellar all day! There's still some great scenery waiting for you... Here we go.
Dolní Kounice alias Vančura's Krokovy Vary
With vineyards to your right and left, you will pass through the hill Kamenný vrch and get a beautiful view of Dolní Kounice at the 17th century St. Anthony's Chapel, which protects the town reliably from natural disasters. Continue down to the picturesque town. It could easily be called Krokovy Vary - It is so strongly reminiscent of Vančura's Whimsical Summer with its small-town charm and grace. The wine=growing town is also famous for its Blaufränkisch from Dolní Kounice. Taste local wines, for example, in the cellar U Dvořáků (children can enjoy the pastry shop). Around the corner, you can buy farm goodies at a shop with the inexplicable name of Schůzka 7.13 (Appointment 7.13).
And the sights of Kounice... Which do we recommend most?
Yes, definitely the famous Rosa Coeli Convent. Today's ruins (especially the unroofed torso of the nave of the church) have such charm that people come here from far away. You won't take such romantic photos anywhere else. You can explore the convent on your own or with a guided tour. (Before visiting, check the website for opening hours in the current season so that you won't find a chain on the closed gates!)
A fort and a castle in one
Rosa Coeli is watched over from above by a fort and a castle in one. If you have enough time, taking a tour is worth it. You'll see such delights as the Green Room, where squires were prepared for knighting, or an exhibition of castle hygiene. There are weekend tours, local food festivals and wine tastings.
And then there's the local synagogue. It's one of the oldest in Moravia. But that's not the most interesting thing about it. This synagogue is not oriented to the cardinal points - as used to be usual - instead, it is in line with the Christian churches of Dolní Kounice. After it was returned to the Jewish religious community in Brno, it was carefully restored.
From the synagogue and the Jewish cemetery, head back among the vineyards following the red trail with more wonderful views. The red trail will take you to the end of Nové Bránice. You can cross the bridge to the train station or continue to Ivančice for another trip.
And how to get back?
By train from Moravské Bránice on line S41.
Extension of the trip to Ivančice (+7.6km)
Do you still have energy to spare, the summer evenings are long and you don't want to go home yet? Follow the red tourist trail along the river (also marked as bike path 403). Stay on it until you reach the railway bridge high above you. Ignore the signs for bike path 403, it will lead you onto an unpleasantly busy road. Continue on the red tourist one for about 100 metres and then just past the water. The trail is easily passable. There has been beautiful scenery the whole way, but now it will be especially worth it!
The holiday atmosphere of Stříbský Mill
You just have to take a break at Stříbský Mill. And preferably a swimming one. Here you will experience the true whimsical summer, here you can still bathe in the river at the raft. The owners of the meadow by the river do everything they can to make you feel like the swimming master Antonín Důra in Vladislav Vančura's Whimsical Summer. In season, you can satisfy your hunger and thirst at a stylish buffet and grill. And if you're lucky and the owners of the café and gallery in the mill are open on the weekend, you'll experience romance non plus ultra.
And one quick stop in Ivančice
After the swim, continue on to Ivančice, past the Bird Hotel (the first of Josef Zahradník's sculptures), the town's asparagus factory and the Alphons Mucha Lookout Tower on Réna Hill. The turn to the lookout tower is at the bridge and takes you over the river and directs you to Ivančice square.
Founded in the 13th century, ancient Ivančice has retained its charm to this day. In the 16th century Ivančice was an important centre of Moravian education. The Bishop of the Unity of the Brethren, Jan Blahoslav, set up a secret printing house here and started the famous translation of the Kralice Bible. The local cultural and information centre will tell you the best tips from Ivančice (and they always have a card game ready)
Famous Ivančice natives
You definitely have to see the historic centre with its Renaissance houses and even the remains of the medieval walls and the landmark - the Church of the Assumption of our Lady with its beautiful Renaissance tower open to public. The Old Town Hall is also Renaissance, but there's probably something else about it that will catch your eye. Or rather, someone with a capital M - Go here to see the memory of its most famous natives, Alphons Mucha and Vladimír Menšík. You might see personal items from their estate. And you'll learn the juicy details of their lives. Imagine, for example, that a famous painter like Alphons Mucha was a naughty little boy... He carved his monogram on a church pew, and it's still in the church today.
If you want a glass of good local Moravian wine at the end of the trip, Mr. Komarov's winery in the center of town is open in the afternoon.
And how to get back?
After sightseeing, it's time to go home - By train from Ivančice station on line S41.
Culinary tip
In addition to visiting local wineries, we recommend visiting the so-called RAF House in Ivančice. This charming restaurant with a museum of the army general Emil Boček, a wartime RAF pilot, serves typical British specialities in addition to original artefacts to delight the eye.